Woman in orange wide-leg trousers and black boots crossing a city street

How to Wear Tailored Trousers This Winter: A Women's Guide

Jeans are the default for a reason: they go with everything and ask nothing of you. But by November, plenty of women are ready for something that looks a little more deliberate, and this winter, trousers are the obvious answer. The season's trouser trend reports are full of gray tailoring, chocolate brown and looser, '70s-leaning shapes, all pitched as a polished alternative to denim.

The good news is that a good pair of trousers is no harder to wear than jeans. You only need to get three things right: the cut, the length and what goes on top. Here is how.

Start with the cut

Most of the trousers you'll see this winter fall into three shapes. Choose the one that suits the shoes you actually wear.

  • Straight-leg — falls in a clean line from hip to hem. The most versatile cut: it works with flats, loafers, ankle boots and sneakers, and it sits neatly under a long coat. If you're buying one pair, make it this one.
  • Wide-leg — fuller from the hip down, with more movement. It looks best with a fitted top and a shoe with some height or a pointed toe, so the hem doesn't swallow your foot.
  • Flared — fitted through the thigh and opening below the knee. The most '70s of the three, and the one that most needs a heeled boot underneath.

Whichever you choose, go high-waisted. A high rise lengthens the leg, gives a tucked knit somewhere to land and stops a low waistband from cutting the outfit in half.

Gray: the trouser color of the season

Gray tailoring, from soft dove to deep charcoal, is one of the trouser trends being called for this winter. It is also the most practical of them. Gray is less severe than black, works with every other neutral and looks considered in a way that navy sometimes doesn't.

The Oaklyn high-waisted straight-leg pants are the pair to start with. The fabric has a fluid drop rather than a stiff crease, so they move well and can go from the desk to dinner without looking like office wear. They come in gray, black and brown. Wear the gray with a cream knit and dark loafers on weekdays, or with a black roll neck and pointed boots after dark.

If you prefer a relaxed fit with a strongly defined waist, the Harrah high-waisted tailored pants come in dark gray among a wide range of colors. The straight, easy cut makes them a natural match for tucked shirts and short knits, and comfortable enough for a full day of sitting, walking and standing.

Brown, the warmer neutral

Chocolate brown has been the quiet staple of the season, and trousers are where it works hardest. Brown is softer than black against winter skin and pairs with cream, camel, burgundy, denim blue and gray. Both the Oaklyn and the Harrah come in brown.

Try the full tonal version: brown trousers, a camel or oatmeal knit and a brown coat, with one darker accent in the shoes or bag. It is the easiest way to look expensive in winter, and it photographs far better than all-black.

Velvet for the party season

From Thanksgiving to New Year's, there is at least one evening a week where jeans feel underdressed and a dress feels like too much. Velvet trousers solve that. They are warm, they catch the light and they make a plain knit look like an outfit.

  • The Liset velvet flared pants, in green, brown or black, are the evening version of the '70s shape. Pair them with a fitted black knit and a heeled ankle boot.
  • The Kiara velvet wide-leg trousers come in richer colors, with red, orange and navy alongside black and beige. Red velvet with a cream sweater is about as festive as a grown-up outfit gets without a single sequin.

Keep the top simple. The velvet is the statement; a satin blouse, sparkle or a busy print on top only competes with it.

What to wear on top

Trousers change what a top has to do. With jeans, a loose sweater looks relaxed. With tailored trousers, the same sweater can look like you got dressed in two different rooms. The fix is proportion: if the trouser is wide, keep the top close-fitting or tucked; if the trouser is straight or slim, you can go roomier on top.

A fine roll neck is the most useful partner. The Seraphine roll neck sweater has a smooth drape that tucks cleanly into a high waistband and sits flat under a coat. The dark grey and beige colorways work with every trouser in this guide. Other good options:

  • A tucked shirt — crisp white or pale blue, sleeves pushed up. The most office-friendly version.
  • A short cardigan, buttoned — it ends at the waistband and shows off the high rise.
  • A blazer over a knit — the closest you'll get to a suit without the formality.

More options are in women's knitwear.

Hem length and shoes

Length is where most trousers go wrong. A hem that is too short looks like an accident; one that is too long drags through winter slush. The rules are simple:

  • Straight-leg: the hem should graze the top of your shoe, with a slight break at most.
  • Wide-leg and flared: the hem should almost cover the shoe, leaving just the toe showing. Have them hemmed for the heel height you'll wear most often.
  • Cropped: stop at or just above the ankle bone, and pair with a sock boot or a loafer so there is no gap of cold skin.

A pointed ankle boot is the one shoe that works with all three cuts. The Sylvie pointed ankle boots have a sharp toe that peeks out from under a wide hem exactly the way it should, and they come in black and brown to match either neutral. On flatter days, a loafer or a pointed flat does the same job. The full range is in women's shoes.

Three outfits to copy

The office. Gray straight-leg trousers, a tucked white shirt, a camel coat and loafers. Nothing about it is a trend, which is exactly why it works.

The weekend. Brown trousers, a chunky cream knit worn loose over the waistband, and sneakers or flat boots. Relaxed, but still sharper than jeans.

The holiday dinner. Red or green velvet, a fitted black roll neck, pointed ankle boots and gold earrings. Nothing else needed.

Care

Hang trousers from the waistband or by the hem with clip hangers, rather than folding them over a hanger bar, which leaves a crease across the knee. Steam rather than iron where you can, especially velvet: an iron flattens the pile and leaves a shine that doesn't come back. Brush velvet lightly in the direction of the nap after wearing. And wash less often than you think; airing a pair out overnight is usually enough.

The short version

Choose a straight leg if you want one pair, a wide leg if you want movement. Start with gray or brown, add velvet for the party season, keep the top fitted when the trouser is full, and hem for the shoe you'll actually wear.

Find every cut in women's pants, and finish the look with the women's Fall Drop.


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